Komodo Island, Indonesia
We had always wanted to see the huge, ferocious Komodo dragons in Indonesia. Att last it was time for us to make it a reality. Very excited we landed in Denpasar, Bali for our connecting flight to Labuan Bajo on Flores Island. Komodo Island National Park was now just a stone throw away.
Labuan Bajo
Once a small fishing village, Labuan Bajo has grown to a somewhat strange mix of the old and the modern. This is due to the lure of the Komodo dragons which brings more visitors to Labuan Bajo. This town is a convenient gateway for trips to the surrounding Komodo and Rinca Islands, where the Komodo dragons still live. In town most things seems to happen in one long street. Many shops sell tours to Komodo Island National Park and Rinca Island, combined with stops at other islands along the way. There are many interesting restaurants with great Indonesian food, a few interesting churches and a mosque. It is not advisable to find accommodation too close to the mosque. The noise of the Arabic prayers several times a day over loud speakers is quite annoying, especially as it starts around 5am in the morning. The places to stay in town fill up fast, so it is advisable to book beforehand, especially in the busier seasons. There are some really nice, peaceful hotels and resorts on the outskirts of Labuan Bajo, and most offer their own transport into the town center. The very busy fish market in the harbor, although quite pungent, is very interesting to visit or buy fresh fish from.
Book your Tour
Numerous shops in the middle of town offer snorkeling and diving tours. These shops are very competitive and everyone tries to drag you into their shop for ‘the best deal’. We shopped around a bit, but all tours were very close to the same prices. We booked and paid for a trip to Komodo Island which included a stop at Padar Island, a short snorkeling trip to Pink Beach and visiting Manta Point. Happy with our booking, we tended to a more pressing matter at the time, hunger! The Tree Top Restaurant was recommended by other tourists in our hotel and we set off ravishingly to find this unique restaurant. This restaurant is split into two main areas which resembles a tree house. When evening came it looked magical with all the strategically placed lighting. With a nice view of the harbor and after a fantastic meal of spicy Indonesian dishes we were ready for bed.
The Harbor
Early the next morning we took the tour boat from the harbor for our visit to the 4 stunning sights on our itinerary. We were amazed to see the hustle and bustle at the harbor. Fishing boats everywhere, families were helping each other with their tiny fishing boats and fishing gear and many excited tourists were lining up for their day trips.
Padar Island
Our first stop was Padar Island, about 30km from Labuan Bajo. This rugged, volcanic island has steep hills with great walking trails to the top providing amazing, 360 degree panoramic views. There are 3 beaches with deep bays, ideal for swimming or snorkeling. The sand of the beaches vary in color from white, black and a rare pink. When visitors get off the boat they need to buy a special permit which includes entrance to all the National Parks on the surrounding islands. Tourists have a choice to stay on the boat, but who wants to miss out on the once in a lifetime views from the top of the hills? Local people wait for tourists when they get off the boat, offering all kinds of traditional souvenirs for sale.
Komodo dragons don’t live on Padar anymore, but dolphins, green turtles and manta rays often visit the island. On land we saw the cutest small geckos sunning themselves on the rocks and on the pathways. We took the steep uphill trail to the top and believe me it is not for the fainthearted. It was very hot when we were there. After the huffing and puffing to get to the top, the view more than made up for the hard work uphill. Don’t forget to take water and sunscreen when you visit this island.
Komodo Island
Our next long-awaited stop was Komodo Island. This UNESCO World Heritage site has fewer than 2000 people and around 2500 Komodo dragons. Once on the island visitors need to go to the reception area and show their National Parks permit, or buy one there if they skipped buying the permits on Padar Island. Each group was assigned two guides, one leading the group and another one at the back of the group. We had a quick rundown of the safety issues as these ferocious dragons could be lethal if they decide to attack. The guides carry sticks to ward off the dragons should they approach visitors. Giving the sticks some dubious looks as not sure how efficient these thin sticks would be, everyone grouped together and scanned the surrounds with extra care.
Encounter with Komodo Dragons
The guides told us there are no guaranteed sightings. We were lucky to see a young Komodo dragon cross the path in front of us about 5 minutes into the walk. After a quick few snaps it disappeared into the dense bushes and we continued on. The trail takes tourists past a watering hole, and there were a few dragons lying around. where our group could take as many snaps or videos as they like. These dragons were disappointingly old and weary looking, not like the ferocious beasts we saw in photos. Our group took many photos and videos before moving on. The trail then led us to the restaurant on site and we were a bit disappointed that we didn’t encounter any more dragons along the way. There were 2 Komodo dragons hanging around the restaurant, obviously waiting for scraps from the kitchen, a fact the guides vehemently denied. These dragons looked much younger than the ones we saw at the watering hole, and we all took many photographs.
Gigantic Komodo
Our good luck started when Albert bought the guides some cold drinks. Not long after, the one guide came up to us, separated us from the group and told us to follow him. We ran after him to the beach and this was what we came for! A massive, fierce-looking dragon dripping saliva, making its way slowly down the beach. Our big chance of encountering one of these beasts in natural surroundings had arrived. We followed and admired this wonderful Komodo dragon and even ventured closer to it for more snaps! Way too soon the guide told us it was time to go back to the boat. The rest of our group were already waiting for us, we had to run after the guide who took us to the boat using a shortcut. We parted from the guides with huge smiles and tips to match our smiles.
My advice for tourists is to offer the guides something extra, maybe money or drinks. This could increase the possibility of the guides taking you to see the huge dragons you have come for.
Pink Beach
Our next stop took us to Pink Beach. This beach is a unique pink color, caused by the red coral in the shallow waters off the beach. Microscopic organisms produce a red pigment that colors the coral with shades of red. The coral then breaks off and small, crushed pieces mix in with the white sand which causes the pink shades. Shades of the sand vary, depending on how many pieces of red coral break down and mix in with the white sand. When we were there the beach was not as pink as some of the photos we have seen, but the lighter pink shades were stunning nevertheless.
We were able to snorkel in the crystal clear, azure blue waters among plenty of sea life. There are some trails where you can climb the hills and look at the scenery from above. After a leisurely lunch on the beach, we headed off to our last stop.
Manta Point
Once at Manta Point, it was interesting to see how the tour boats follow the Manta rays around. Tour boats are on a schedule so not all of them arrive at one time, preventing the area from being overcrowded. The lookout sees the Manta rays breaking the sea surface and alerts the skipper. He then quickly changes direction to follow the Mantas. Tourists are told to get ready and as soon as the Manta rays are close they are urged to jump in as quickly as they can.
In a terrible rush to jump in I lost my mask and snorkel on the first jump. I swallowed a lot of water, not to mention all for nothing as I didn’t get to see the rays. With the next jump I got lucky, went a bit slower and held onto my mask tightly. It was one of the most amazing sights to see these huge rays slowly moving their majestic wings right underneath you. They seemed to prefer to move upstream, so you really have to work hard to stay with them for a little while. I kept swimming until I was absolutely exhausted, then just floated back to the boat. We had a few successful Manta ray sightings the day we had our tour. Feeling exhausted after our successful tour, most tourists slept on the way back to Labuan Bajo, including us, but we had one of the most amazing times of our lives. An experience not to be missed!
Lombok and the Gili Islands, Indonesia
Lombok, Indonesia
Lombok is an Indonesian Island easily reachable from Bali, by either fast ferry or domestic flight. Most tourists use Lombok as a starting point to get to the three small Gili Islands, Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air. There are a lot of interesting things to see and do on Lombok as well.
Mount Rinjani Volcano and Tiu Kelep Waterfall
The three day, two night trek up the volcano of Mount Rinjani is a popular activity for tourists, offering a panoramic view from the top. Along the way you can soak in the Air Kalak Hot Springs, believed to have medicinal properties. You can also catch some pretty views of the colorful fields from the Bukit Pekasingan viewpoint on the trek.
There are a few treks to hidden waterfalls in the hills around Lombok, with Tiu Kelep Waterfall one of the most popular. Also worth a visit are Manku Sakta Waterfall and Benang Kelambu Waterfall.
Pearls
The export of pearls are huge in Lombok and a visit to one of the Pearl Farms to explore the harvesting is a must. Autore Pearl Farm offers full tours and has a showroom you can visit.
Massages
There are always a place nearby where you can have a relaxing massage. If you are brave try the traditional, somewhat painful Sasaknese Massage. This massage is based on specific pressure points and is popular with sports people who have injuries.
Sasak Sade Village and Sukarara Village
Observe the interesting Sasak culture in the traditional Sasak Sade Village. Women are taught to weave from very young and it is said that girls cannot marry unless they know how to weave. You can buy lovely, colorful textiles in the village and at the same time practice your haggling skills.
Another village where weaving can be observed is Sukarara Village. Selling the textiles provides the villagers to preserve their traditions and cultures. Prices of the textiles vary, depending on the motive and processing time.
Rent a motorbike
We rented a motorbike and had a lot of fun exploring this island. Having our own wheels gave us the freedom to go where we wanted and stop for as long as we wanted. One of our many stops included a delicious lunch at a small restaurant on the beach. We had the mouthwatering Sate Rembiga, a beef dish that is a bit spicy and cooked over a fire. Another equally delicious chicken dish we had is called Ayam Taliwang.
The island of Lombok with its many adventures is definitely worth exploring and if time permits, should not be skipped completely in favor of the three Gili Islands.
Gili Trawangan, Indonesia
The main attraction of the three Gili Islands are exploring the wonders of the pristine underwater world around the islands. Gili Trawangan, one of three small islands off the coast of Bali, is characterized by sandy beaches fringed with palm trees. It is the biggest and busiest of the three islands and is also known as the ‘party island’. There are many restaurants and and no shortage of nightlife and partying hotspots. The 3km long and 2km wide island is easily explorable on foot, by bicycle or by ‘cidomo’, the popular donkey-drawn carts.
Cycling
You can try to cycle around the island, which is not easy. Parts of the path are in deep sand, and sometimes stops against the rocks where the bicycles have to be picked up. The bicycles then have to be carried on to the next navigable part of the path, which could be quite a long way. We cycled around the island, but we had to carry the bicycles a lot, so I think it is much easier just to walk around the island.
Motorized transport, except electric scooters, is not allowed on any of the three islands, adding to the unique and relaxing atmosphere. Island-hopping to all three islands, Lombok and Bali is easy using private transfers or the conveniently scheduled public boats.
Snorkeling
There are some great snorkeling spots around the island. Tourists can also snorkel around the artificial metal reef cages fed by electricity that was set up by the Gili Eco Trust. These cages encourage coral regeneration and naturally attracts many forms of marine life.
Horse-riding
If horse-riding is your thing, it is another great way to see the island. Galloping along the beach and stopping for a Bintang is great fun. You can also watch the sunrise or sunset from horseback. Try Sunset Stables or Stud Horse Riding stables.
Kayaking
Take a paddle on a kayak with a see-through bottom across the channel to Gili Meno for a picnic lunch. Make sure the bottoms of the kayaks are actually see-through before you pay, or else just take a normal, cheaper kayak. Also make sure of the price, tourists have been given a price before which they thought was for the day, but when they came back were told it was an hourly rate.
Sunset
North Beach is popular to lounge around in beautiful settings, have cocktails and a bite to eat while watching the sunset. At the southwest side of Gili Trawangan are a number of bars and overwater swings with gorgeous photo opportunities. An alternative is to take a sunset cruise for a different point of view.
Mosque
There is a mosque on the island and it is advisable not to find accommodation too close to the mosque as the noise from the loudspeakers several times a day, starting very early in the morning, can be deafening and a bit annoying.
A bit of a down side
Unfortunately, the government closed down the little businesses on the main street along the beach side as the buildings and structures were not complying to the building codes. Now the whole beach is littered with half destroyed buildings and rubble, where these attractive little businesses used to be.
We would definitely go back to Gili Trawangan for the amazing snorkeling and for a bit of fun at night, especially the lovely BBQ restaurants on the beach where you can have an extensive variety of buffet food and watch fresh seafood being grilled in front of you, listen to music and watch the waves breaking softly near your table while you twiddle your toes in the sand.
Gili Meno, Indonesia
Gili Meno, 2km long and 1km wide, is in the middle of the three Gili islands and is the quietest and smallest of the islands. It is very popular with honeymooners attracted by the secluded white beaches. The palm trees on the island are set among grass fields where cattle graze peacefully. There is a turtle sanctuary on the island that is popular with tourists who can pay for an experience to release the baby turtles into the sea. We walked from the ferry across the island to our hotel, past little villages and a little general store where we surprisingly picked up a few things that we didn’t think we would find in such a small, remote store.
Snorkeling
Snorkeling is great all around Gili Meno. The Gili Meno Wall is a popular spot to see turtles and amazing corals. The recently added underwater art sculptures called ‘The Nest’ on Gili Meno is wonderful to explore. Easily reachable from the beach it provides a very unique snorkeling experience with excellent photo opportunities. The idea is for it to act as an artificial reef with coral growing on it. When we visited the site, it was already attracting many colorful fish. There are 48 life-size human figures, some standing and some lying on the seabed, arranging in a circle.
To find these sculptures, head out to the beach club ‘Bask” and from the huge “Bask’ nameplate on the beach walk directly towards the sea. From there it takes less than 3 minutes swimming to get to the sculptures. We snorkeled the sculptures from the beach and spent quite a long time exploring these amazing sculptures, whereas a few tour group snorkelers came whisking through by boats, were given barely enough time to take pictures before being whisked off again. And all this with almost fighting each other off to get the best picture in the best spot. We hung back for these groups until they were gone before going closer to explore further at our leisure.
Transport
As motorized transport is not allowed on any of the three Gili Islands, you can take a ‘cidomo’ (donkey-drawn cart) from your hotel to the ferry if you have a lot of luggage, or else everything on the small island is reachable on foot. It is also interesting to see how the donkey carts are used for transporting building rubble.
If spending time on the beach, relaxing and snorkeling in a quiet, idyllic little place is your thing, I would definitely recommend a few days on Gili Meno.
Gili Air, Indonesia
The second biggest of the three Gili Islands, Gili Air is the closest to mainland Lombok. There are excellent snorkeling spots around the island. Tourists can also kitesurf and rent paddleboards on the island and it is easy to walk around the island in less than 3 hours. Although the party scene is much smaller than on Gili Trawangan, there are still a few bars around that provide music and entertainment. The island has a few shops to buy souvenirs, clothes, shoes and accessories should the shopping bug start biting or boredom creeps in.
Sunset
To watch the sunset, there are amazing, romantic settings such as colored bean bags at many restaurants on the beach. Romantic lit up heart shapes where you can pose for photos and many over water swings in front of the beach bars can be found. These are an Instagrammar or photographer’s dream, with the perfect pink champagne colored sea as backdrop while you slowly swing and wait for the sun to set.
Turtles
One of my best memories is where I encountered a slow swimming turtle and followed it for probably an hour. The turtle was not intimidated by me and was so close I could watch him use his mouth to rip off and eat some brittle pieces of rock with a crunching sound, every now and then go up to breathe above water, then go back and continue grazing.
Transport
As there is no motorized transport on Gili Air, the best and easiest way to explore the island is on foot. You can also use a ‘cidomo’ (donkey-drawn cart) or rent a bicycle. Island hopping to the other Gili islands is easy and cheap using the conveniently scheduled public boats.
From Gili Air we sadly said goodbye to the Gili Islands and took a 2.5 hour trip on a fast ferry to Padang Bai in Bali. It was an amazing, unforgettable trip and we would love to visit these gems of islands again soon.